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ILLUSTRATED 



INSTRUCTION BOOK 





MANUFACTURED EXCLUSIVELY BY 



o BICKFORD KNITTING MACHINE MANUFACTUEING COMPANY, 



BRATTLBBORO, 



B. D. HAERIS, President. 

C. F. TEOMPSON, Treasurer. 
J. la SIMONDS, M'fg Supt. 



•V IE IER_ 3VE O 1ST T. 



Copyright Secured. 



1 






$ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, by DANA BICKFORD, on January 1st, 1873, in the offlce of 
the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



ft 10 - 

Copyright Secured. 






I3STTRODUCTIO]Sr. 

I present you this book to explain to you my position, and give you the confidence in my business and machine 
that every one should have before recommending a thing to their friends ; and if you will look it through care- 
fully, you will see what claim I have upon your confidence and patronage. In investigating the Knitting Machine 
business over six years ago, I came to the conclusion that this branch of improvements had been left out 
entirely, and that it was my business to make a good labor-saving machine ; and since that I have encountered 
all manner of difficulties and disappointments, but have been determined all the while to succeed in presenting every 
household with one of the most useful and complete pieces of mechanism in the world ; something that would 
enable the weary housewife to have a few hours of rest and recreation, as well as the matrons and young ladies of 
leisure and fashion to have a never failing fountain of pleasure as well as solid enjoyment. And feeling that no lady 
would object to spend her leisure moments in constructing something beautiful as well as useful, if she had a 
neat, handy article to do it on; and knowing that articles entirely improvised and completed by some dear friend 
are more highly prized than the most expensive articles made by others, I have kept pushing on until I 
have brought my machine to that perfection that the public demand before they are willing to spend their own 
money and recommend their friends to do so. Since I commenced some others have attempted, by infringing 
upon my improvements, to put something they call Knitters, into competition with me ; but parties will not have 
to hesitate long in deciding which to buy. All improvements, excepting the bare construction of a straight tube, 
belong to me, and are covered by numerous Letters Patent, etc. And finally, in my first machine I could only 
make a straight tubular web, and that had to be cut into work. 

The Machine that I now present you is complete in every part, and far excels all others, and with our improved 
advantages for manufacturing, no family could invest two hundred dollars in any business or bank that would pay 

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even to a very small family, as much interest as this machine would, costing only thirty dollars ; and they could 
not procure for any money the amount of pleasure and enjoyment that one would give them. 

It far excels in quietness of operation and ease of working, and requires far less skill to operate it than any other. 

It is adapted to all kinds of plain as well as fancy knitting, and in fact it will knit anything or everything that the 
most ingenious lady can knit or crochet, from a watch cord to a bed or carriage blanket, (See circular.) 

We now apply the take-up and weights to hold down the work while knitting the heel, toe, etc., making it the 
most complete machine in the world. 

I will here state, for the guidance of the people in purchasing machines, and to prevent their being imposed 
upon by parties trying to produce articles without regard to my claims, I am the originator of the Automatic 
Knitting Machine, in all its parts, as well as the work made upon it ; also the Needle, itself, as the following 
Patents will show : 



Sept. 10th, 1867 No. 68595. 

July 7th, 1868 

July 21st, 1868 

July 21st, 1868 

Dec. 1st, 1868 

Dec. 1st, 1868 

July 6th, 1869 



79787. 
80121. 
80122. 
84472, 
84473. 
92166. 



July 6th, 1869 92147. 

Nov. 2d, 1869 96531. 

Sept. 17th, 1872. lf.1386. 

Sept. 17th, 1872 131387. 

Sept. 17th, 1872 131388. 

Oct, 22d, 1872 



Besides the above, I have a large number of applications pending in the U. 8. Patent Office, and have already 
Patents for Great Britain, France, Belgium, Prussia, Austria, Saxony, Wurtemburg and Bavaria. 

DANA BICKFORD. 



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Any of the following articles may be readily produced on this Machine, and may be beautifully varied in an in- 
finite variety of designs, in form, color or stitch : 



Children's Carriage Slats. 


Covers for Cnrtain Tassels. 


Cushion Covers and 


Purses. 


Tufted Carriage Slats. 


Toilet Slats. 


Ottoman Covers in 


Dusters. 


Tnfted Door Slats. 


Lamp Slats. 


Looped Trimmings. 


Slittens. 


Tufted Muffs and Collars. 


Fringed Slittens. 


Scarfs (great variety). 


Cloves. 


Fancy Stitch SInffs & Collars. 


Linings for Garments. 


Socks. 


Wristlets. 


Cradle Blankets. 


Tablespreads. 


Caps. 


Fringes. 


Traveling & Bed Blankets. 


Bedspreads, 


Hoods. 


Cords. 


Infants' Shirts. 


Undershirts. 






Carriage Afghans. 


Snspenders. 


Shawls. 


Tnftings. 


Cliildrens' Afghans. 


Gentlemen's, 


Jackets. 


Trimmings. 


Breakfast Capes. 


Ladies' and Children's 


Nubias. 


Hose Socks. 


Smoking Caps. 


Underwear 


Drawers. 


Stockings. 


Skating Caps. 


Of every kind. 


Skirts. 


Capes. 


Watch Cords. 


Pianoforte Covers. 


Sashes. 


Slippers. 


Curtain Cords. 


Sofa Tidies. 


Leggins. 


Tidies. 



"We give personal instructions free of charge, for doing all this large variety of beautiful work, at the salesroom 
of the Company, to any one buying a Machine. 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



EXPLANATION OF FIG. 1. 

A Thumb-screw, to fasten machine to table. 

B Yarn-stand. 

C Pins for bobbins. 

D Yarn-carrier and Sliding-ring to which the carrier is attached. 

E Machine Handle. 

F Buckle. 

G Weights. 

H Revolving Cylinder. 

I Needle " " 

J Ring-clasp. 

K Cam for changing the length of stitch. 

L Indicator to show the distance moved. 

M Swing-cams and their attachments. 

N Pins for Flat Web. 

O Set-up. 

P Looper. 

Q Bobbin-winder. 

R Take-up. 

Referring to the engraving, Fig. 1, it will be seen that the machine, exclusive of needles 
and the toothed wheel, consists of only sixteen parts, as follows: (A), thumb-screw to fasten 
machine to table; (B) yarn-stand; (C) pins for bobbins; (IX) yarn-carrier and sliding-ring to 
which carrier is attached ; (E) machine handle ; (F) buckle ; (Gr) weights ; (H) revolving cylin- 
der ; (I) needle cylinder ; (J) ring-clasp ; (K) cam and screw for changing stitch ; (L) indicator, 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



to show distance moved ; (M) swing-cams and their attachments ; (N) pins for knitting flat 
web ; (O) set-up ; (P) looper. 

The three first and the three last enumerated, as well as the buckle (F) and the weight (G), 
are not moving parts, the latter being only eight in number. On the bottom of the revolving 
cylinder are formed teeth which mesh into a beveled gear turned by the crank (E). The yarn, 
being wound upon u bobbin, is placed on one of the pins, (C). It is passed over the yarn-stand 
(B), and thence through a hook in the top of a bent bar (D) called the "carrier." This carrier is 
fastened to the revolving cylinder (H), which carries the cams, and travels with it, carrying the 
yarn, and holding it in just the right position to be caught by the hook of each needle, as the 
latter is depressed by the action of the cams. To enable the reader to comprehend the action of 
these parts, we must first explain the stitch taken in the knitting of an ordinary stocking. 



CAMS 



Fie,. 2 



made 

less y 



or locks employed for moving the needles 
up and Down. 

Fig. 2 shows the movable cam "K," by the regulation 
of which the stitches are made longer or shorter. The set- 
ting of this cam isdone by the middle thumb-screw "K,"(see 
Fig. 1,) the indicator point, "L," moving over a scale, showing 
the proper degree of lengthening and shortening the stitches. 
Thus, when the cam "K" is lowered, the stitches are made 
longer, as the needles are drawn down farther into the 
grooves of the cylinder, and require more yarn to form the 
stitches. And when the cam "K" is raised, the stitch is 

shorter, as the needles are not drawn so far into the grooves of the cylinder, thereby using 

am. 




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Illnstrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 9 

M M, m Fig. 2, represents swing-cams; these are screwed on to the inside of the revolving 
cylinder H, Fig. 1, and as they are carried around by the revolving cylinder, the angular bent 
part or foot, R, (see Fig. 3,) of the needle passes through the curved space between the cams, 
Fig. 2; and as the needles are held from moving sidewise, by being placed in grooves formed in 
the needle cylinder I, Fig. 1, they are forced up and down as desired. Each row of loops is 
also sustained by means of the needles themselves, as the needle cylinder prevents their bending 
inward, and keeps them in a vertical position, as shown in Fig. 1. 

Ahem/.", in knitting Circular Web, the forward swing (M) should be up, so to free the latches 
or raise them »b >ve the loops, that the needles, as they are drawn down by cam "K," may throw 
them oft*, ihuo forming new stitches. And the back swing-cam (M) should be down, so that the 
latches of the needles, coming up in position (after having been drawn down by cam "Iv"), may 
be held down until they are ready to be raised xvp by the forward swing-cam (M) again ; this 
prevents them flying up and dropping stitches. 

In knitting a flat web or heel, the carrier, D, must be reversed, so as to be forward of the 
swing-cam, M. To do this properly, you must put in the pins, N, about four holes forward of 
the last needle on each side, and after the carrier, D, strikes the pin on one side, turn the 
machine forward as far as it will go, thus changing the carrier from one side to the other. Tin's 
will allow the swing-cam, M, that freed the latch by being forward before, to fall down into 
place, and allow the other one to be forced up, so as to free the latch as before ; as the carrier, 
D, reverses. For further description see Flat Web, on 16th page. 



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10 



Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



FIG. 3, SHOWING THE OPERATION OF THE NEEDLES 
IN FORMING THE STITCH. 

Fig. 3 represents four of the needles with the yarn looped 
thereon, as when the machine is at work. The needle employed is 
shown complete at No. 1. In the other numbers a portion of the 
lower part is broken away. The needle consists of a body, an angu- 
lar bent portion or foot, It, a hook, S, and a latch, T. The latter is 
pivoted to the body of the needle at U, and works partly in a slot 
formed in the body. The latch lias, moreover, a spoon-shaped end, 
shown at V, which, when the latch is closed, as shown in needle No. 
2, meets and partly shuts over the point of the hook, S, so that the 
loop formed on the needle easily slips off when the latter makes its 
downward movement. The needle, as shown, is covered by two 
direct Patents, secured by Dana Bickford, the inventor of the 
machine, by which he obviates the necessity of using all former de- 
vices for holding the needles or opening and closing the latches to 
prevent splitting the larger sizes of yarn. One of these improve- 
ments is the depression or hollow shown at Z, Fig. 3. This allows 
the loop, when passing off the needle, to always pass under the point 
of the opened latch, so that the latter is closed by the loop itself, 
avoiding all strain upon the needle, or liability to break, from rigid 
parts getting out of adjustment. The deeper depression, Y, is also 
another improvement, the use of which will be explained when de- 
scribing the process ofnarrowing, further on. Now let the reader suppose one hue of stitches 




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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting 1 Machine. 1 1 

O 

already formed on these needles, as shown in the engraving, and the thread of yarn to be knit, 
so held that the needle marked will hook over it when the latter descends. The thread will he 
drawn down by the needle until the latch, T, meets the loop previously formed. This loop, slid- 
ing along the body of the needle, lifts the latch and closes it into the position shown in No. 2. 
The loop then slides off the needle as it continues to descend, and the thread, heing drawn 
down through the former loop, forms a new loop, through which the needle will pass in rising, 
as shown in No. 4, opening the latch, and leaving the hook free to engage the yarn when the 
latter is brought under it again, and so on. 

Now, it is obvious that if we supply mechanism that will bring the yarn under the hook at 
the proper moment, and also move the needles up and down successfully, and also provide a 
device for supporting each row of loops till the next row is formed, we shall have a machine that 
will knit a straight tube. 

As soon as the reader understands how this is done, we shall be able to explain how widen- 
ing and narrowing can be done, and how a variety of stitches can be made, or a flat web knit. 

TO WIND THE BOBBIN. 

Fasten the bobbin winder "Q," to the end of a table. Screw the small 
clamp (found in the box) to one side of the table and place the swift upon it, put a 
skein of yarn upon the swift, (adjusting them to suit the length of it,) find the end 
and commence to wind, using the right hand to turn the handle, and the left to 
hold the yarn. Begin at the base or large end of bobbin, filling it in the form of a 
cone, always keeping an even slant. (See cut.) The hand that holds the yarn should 
continue to move back and forth with the yarn, up and down the cone, being care- 
ful that one course does not bind in another, but let them run up and down 




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1 2 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

smoothly so that the yarn, in knitting, will run off the top without clinging or causing tension. 

Coarse or hard twisted yarn should be wound close, but line or soft-twisted yarns or 
worsted should be wound loosely but smooth. Great care should be taken in winding them 
properly, as a poor or unevenly wound bobbin will make the machine run badly when every- 
thing else is right. 

TAKING OUT NEEDLES. 

To take out the needles, first open the clasp J, then lift them out of the open space ; if 
you wish to take out one or two when the work is on, put the loops on the adjoining needles. 

OILING THE MACHINE. 

Oil the machine with prepared knitting machine or sewing machine oil. (See bottle sent 
with machine.) 

The parts requiring to be oiled are the cams, butts of needles, and the bearings of crank or 
handle. 

Open the clasp (J) and drop a little oil on each side of the cam, also a drop on the butts of 
say fifteen (15) needles, in different places around the machine. 

In cleaning the machine, (which should be done frequently), remove the ring-clasp (J), take 
out the needles and remove the revolving cylinder "H," wipe off the old oil, dust and lint that 
collects around the cams and bed plates of the machine, and put a little fresh oil around the 
cams. Replace the revolving cylinder, then wipe each needle separately and dip the butt of 
every 12th or 15th needle in the oil before inserting it in the machine. 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knittinar Machine. 13 



CHANGING- THE LENGTH OF STITCH. 

The stitch can he made longer or shorter, so as to knit open or close work, by raising or 
lowering the movable cam "K" (see fig. 2). The indicator "I," moving over a scale shows the 
distance moved. Thus, to make a long stitch, loosen the thumb screw " K," and lower it until the 
stitch is long enough for the yarn to be used, being verv careful to tighten the screw, after mov- 
ing it, before turning the machine. 

To make a short stitch, loosen the thumb-screw "K," and raise it enough to tighten the stitch 
as desired, or according to the yarn to be used, remembering to tighten the screw after moving 
it, as stated before. The closer the stitch the more weight is required to keep the loops down to 
the cylinder, so that the needles can pass up through them to form the next stitch. 

If the yarn runs loose over the needles without making a perfect stitch, the cam screw "K" 
is probably loose, or the stitch is too short for the yarn used, requiring the cam "K" to be 
lowered. 

If the stitches cling to the needles as they are driven up to catch the yarn at the carrier D, 
the stitch is too short, or there is not weight enough, and you can see at once they will not knit, 
as the needle has to pass up through to bring the latch of the needle above the loop, so that, in 
drawing down after it has caught the yarn, it can close the latch over the hook and allow the loop to . 
pass over the end to form the next row of stitches. You can use one, two, or three threads, being 
sure that the length of the stitch is sufficient to prevent the work from being too close. It is 
better to practice on some plain work until you understand the machine thoroughly, for if these 
rules are not followed the work will not prove satisfactory. 

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14 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

TO SET UP THE WORK. 

Bring the carrier (D) to the right hand side of the machine opposite the first pin for bob- 
bin. Place the bobbins upon the pins (C), and put the yarn through the eye of yarn-stand (B), 
directly over the bobbin from which you wish to knit; put the yarn through the upper eye of 
carrier (D), bringing the end inside the cylinder; put the set-up in the centre of the machine, 
bringing the hooks even with the top of the cylinder ; thread the yarn upward through the eye 
of the looper (see cut), drawing through about two yards, or enough to form the loops ; use the 
left hand to hold the set-up in place, and the right to form the loops. This is done by bringing 
the looper on the right side of carrier (D), then putting the yarn over a hook of the set-up, and 
then up round a needle from right to left, which twists the yarn around the needle, and forms a 
loop ; then around another hook and up round the next needle as before ; continue looping the 
yarn round the hooks and needles until you have all above the cylinder filled ; now attach the 
weight-hook to the end of the set-up, and suspend your weights from it (see .cut) ; now turn 
your machine slowly to the right to bring up the remaining needles, and fill these also with 
stitches ; drop the looper and end of yarn in the centre of set-up, and turn the handle slowly until 
every stitch is perfect, and you have adjusted your cam (K) to the size of yarn used and length 
of stitch required. This forms a selvedge edge at the top of your work — the shorter your loops 
the closer your selvedge. 

In using the 72 needle cylinder, the thread should be doubled over every other hook of the 
,set-up, and in using the 100 needle cylinder, it must be doubled on every hook as you have 
only 50 hooks and 100 needles, or you can start with a piece of knit work by passing it up 
through the cylinder and putting a loop over each needle, or as many as is necessary ; put on the 
buckle " F," and weights " G," (see cut), and thread the carrier as described above ; then proceed 
to knit. 

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16 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting- Machine. 



TAKE-UP. 

The take-up is to be used when knitting a heel, flat web, or in any place where it is re- 
quired to knit backward and forward. 

It is for taking up the slack yarn that is made while reversing the carrier or brino-ino- it in 
position to knit in the opposite direction. 

When used for the heel of stocking or sock, after the leg has been knit in a circular web the 
stitch cam (K) should be lowered a little to make the stitch longer, as the friction of the take- 
up makes the stitch a little shorter. 



THE SPRING TAKE-UP. 

To use the Spring Take-up, put the yarn up over the centre arm of the yarn-stand, " B," 
pass it along down through the second slot, then up through the third slot, then up over the 
spring and down tlu-ough the front eye. The take-up is regulated by the small screw in the back. 

FLAT "WEB. 

The object of the holes in the base of the machine is to insert the pins (found with the extra 
needles) for the purpose of gauging the width of work to be knit. For example, in usino- twelve 
needles (which, for convenience, should be placed in the back part of the machine), insert these 
pins, one on each side, far enough beyond the needles (say four holes or spaces) so that each 
stitch can be formed perfectly on either side of the web. 

For knitting flat web, the take-up should be 

used. '■ 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting* Machine. 17 

Commence the work with the set-up or a piece of knit work (see direction) and knit across. 
As the carrier (D) strikes the pins, continue turning the machine until the sliding ring that the 
carrier (D) is attached to comes to a full stop, or the carrier is brought in front of the back 
swing cam. It is then in position to knit the other way. Knit back to the opposite side, being 
careful to reverse the carrier as before, and so continue knitting back and forth, being sure to 
make this change every time, or it will throw off the stitches on the backward course. 

Any number of needles can be used, from one to the whole circle. 

The full width of the machine can be knit by selecting some point for the selvedge (which, 
for convenience, can be in the front part of the machine), leave the carrier in the back part of 
the machine in front of the yarn-stand. Now raise up 20 needles on the right of the 
point selected, insert one pin five spaces to the right of the point, or opposite the sixth needle 
raised, and knit around to the pin ; reverse the carrier and knit back to the yarn-stand; push 
down the twenty needles that were raised, and raise up twenty more on the left of the 
point selected, and move the pin five spaces to the left of the point ; knit around to the pin 
again ; reverse and knit back to the yarn-stand ; push down the raised needles, and raise up 
twenty on the right side, and move the pin as before. Continue knitting back and forth, push- 
ing down, raising up needles, and moving the pin as directed. In this way a much wider web 
can be knit, but it requires more time to do it, as enough needles must be raised, each time 
knitting across, for the cams to pass under and reverse the carrier without dropping stitches. 

To knit flat webs together, first knit one web, and when you commence the next one take 
the first short loop of the selvedge of the lower right-hand corner of the web already knit and 
put it over the last needle in the row, or at the left hand side when the carrier stands to the 
right. Then knit across to the left, and back to the right again ; throw over the next short loop 
of the selvedge, and continue to knit and pass over loops, till the web you are knitting is as long 
as the other. 



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18 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



To join these to another, pass them hoth up through the cylinder as before ; in this manner 
you can knit strips of any width, or can connect narrow strips of different colors to form tidies 
and other fancy work. 

SEAMING. 

To make two and one seamed work, take out every third needle. 

To make three and one seamed work, take out every fourth needle. 

To make four and one seamed work, take out every fifth needle. 

KNITTING UP STITCHES. 

If, through mistake or carelessness, a stitch is dropped, it can be knit up so neatly that it is 
impossible to detect it after knitting a few rows. Take one of the needles and pass it down 
under the threads, or between the work and cylinder; catch the stitch and push the needle 
through it far enough to get the stitch beyond the latch; then, with the hook, lift the thread last 
raveled, or the one next the stitch, on to the latch of the needle, draw the needle up far enough 
to drop off the stitch first taken up; this leaves a new stitch on the needle; push the needle 
down through it again far enough to get the stitch beyond the latch; lift on to the latch of the 
needle the next thread, and proceed as before. A little practice enables one to do this perfectly. 

BALMORAL WORK. 

To knit balmoral work, select the colored yarns to be used, winding each color on a sepa- 
rate bobbin, using them as you would balls in hand knitting, always changing on the same 
needle, which, for convenience, can be in the centre of the back part of the machine ; then knit 
the number of times round desired with the first color, and place the bobbin of the color just 
finished in the inside of the web, being sure to take this yarn from the carrier. Then put the 
second color into the carrier, under the hook of the needle above-mentioned, thus ending and 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 19 

commencing on the same needle. In this way any number of colors can be used, according to 
the taste of the operator. 

KNITTING A SOCK. 

Put the machine in order for circular work, by 

arranging the stitch cam (K) for the size of yarn to be used. 
If you are not sure on this point, it is better to practice with the different sizes of yarn you 
would be most likely to use, as it is impossible to give an exact position for the indicator (L) on 
every style and size of yarn. The carrier (D) should be, when in position to knit, just sis far 
ahead of the front swing cam (M) as it is possible to push it. If you wish the sock ribbed at the 
top, take out every third or fourth needle. Set the work up in the usual way, (see direction,) 
and knit around thirty-five times for the rib — then put in the needles previously taken out, and 
take the upper part of the adjoining stitch below, and put it over the needle just put in, to form 
a new stitch. 

For a plain sock, knit around from seventy to ninety times, according to the size of yarn used 
and length required for the leg, leaving the carrier (D) on the back part of the machine, in 
front of the yarn-stand. Set the heel, which is done by raising up thirty-four needles, for the 
instep, in the front part of the machine, so the cams will pass under them, and thus prevent 
them from knitting. 

Put in the pins (N N) one on either side, four spaces or holes from the needles you wish 
to kuit then remove the set up and weights, putting on the 

buckle and weights, drawing the work on the back, or heel, through the buckle as 
tightly as possible ; now turn the handle as far as you can, to the left, and raise up the last 
needle knit on that side ; reverse and knit back to the right, and raise up the last needle knit on 
that side ; reverse and knit back to the left, holding the work down firmly on the inside with 

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20 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting 1 Machine. 



the left hand wliile knitting across, (for if the latch is not free, or raised above the stitch, it will 
not throw it off when the needle is drawn down, but will leave two threads or a loop-stitch upon 
the needle). Continue to knit across and to raise up needles, until you have all up but sixteen, 
or have raised up eleven needles on each side ; and, as you raise up the eleventh needle on the 
right hand side, commence to widen out, by pushing down the last needle that you raised, or to 
eleventh, on the left hand side, opposite the carrier. Knit across and push down one on 
the other side, or the right hand side, as the carrier stands to the left. Knit across again, and 
push down one as before, (always on the opposite side from the carrier), aud so continue to do 
until ten of the raised needles on each side are down. This leaves one raised needle on each 
side, which should be pushed down with the instep needles so as to prevent any holes in the 
corners of the heel. (It is very easy to tell which have been raised in knitting, as each one has 
a thread and stitch on it.) take out the pins (N N), and 

push down all the raised needles, (being sine that the latches are down). 

For ordinary yarn, knit around seventy times for the foot, then it is ready for the toe. Now 
prepare machine the same as for heel, only raising up one half or thirty-six needles, instead of 
thirty-four. insert the pins (N N), and knit to the left as far as 

possible, (or far enough to reverse the carrier). Raise up the last needle that knit (allowing the 
thread to pass out around the needle raised). Knit back to the right, and raise up the last 
needle that knit on that side. Reverse and knit to the left again, raising up a needle as before. 
Contim^ to do this until you have raised up thirteen needles on each side, or have all up but 
ten nee. s. This brings the carrier (D) to the left hand side of the machine. "Widen out by 
pushing down the last needle raised, or the one on the right hand side, opposite from the carrier. 
Knit across and push down one on the left hand side, as the carrier stands to the right. Knit 
across again, and push down one as before, (always on the opposite side from the carrier,) and 
so continue until all of the raised needles, or thirteen on each side, are down. Knit around once 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



21 



or twice plain, to allow for any mishap which might occur in taking the 
sock from the machine, which is done by breaking the thread at carrier (D), 
and turning the handle, as in knitting. Join the top of the foot to the top 
of the toe with the mending stitch, (see cut) by raveling the extra rows 
knit, thread this into a worsted or darning needle, commence at the end 
where you left off raveling, take up one stitch on the top of the foot, and 
one from the toe, drawing the thread through, about the same tension as 
the knitting itself; now take the under half of the stitch on the foot that 
you had taken before, and the next stitch to it, (being careful to keep 
the stitch from twisting ;) next take the under half of the stitch on the toe 
that you had taken before, and the next stitch to it, being very careful to 
hold the remaining stitches in place with the thumb, or they will ravel 
down while you are puffing the thread through the stitches ; so continue, 
alternating from one side to the other, until the foot is joined. If done 
neatly it is impossible to detect where it is joined, or tell it from the knit- 
ting itself, and with very little practice it can be learned. 
The square heel is knit as follows: Leave the carrier (D) on the back part of the machine 
and raise up thirty-four needles in the front for instep ; insert 

the pins (" N N,") as in the round heel, knit across, back and forth, thirty-eight times, run the 
heel off, and join the end with the mending stitch, or knit thirty-six times and join on the ma- 
chine, which is done by running off eighteen stitches on each side, and leaving two in the centre ; 
now pick up a stitch on either side next to the two needles, and put it on the needles ; knit 
across once and pick up the next two stitches ; knit across again and pick up two more ; so con- 
tinue until you have picked them all up, and have only the two stitches left ; now pick up the 
long loops of the selvedge edge of the heel on the needles that the heel was on before, and push 




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22 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

down the raised needles. Take out the pins, and proceed to knit the foot. 

The toe can be narrowed by raising up half the needles, as in the round heel sock, and nar- 
rowing every time across, by removing the edge stitch (on the side opposite the carrier) to 
the next needle. Knit across and narrow the same way on that side ; do this until you have 
six or seven stitches left; run these oft* the machine, and draw a thread through to prevent them 
from raveling while narrowing the other side, which is done by pushing down the needles raised, 
and knitting across, narrowing one stitch every revolution, as before. 

Connect the first half to the one you are knitting, (see Flat Wei),) or you can join the 
selvedge by hand ; this makes a very nice toe, but the round toe is preferable. 

To narrow a stocking or sock on a circular web, commence as directed for new work. If 
you wish it seamed at the top, take out every third or fourth needle, knitting about three inches, 
more or less, in length ; then return them to their place again, taking the under part of the ad- 
joining stitch and putting it over the needle which was just put in, to form a new stitch. Then 
knit on three or four inches plain. The stitch may be made loose over the calf of the leg, and 
gradually tightened to the ankle, shaping it nicely ; or it may be narrowed down to the size de- 
sired by taking out needles. This is done by first taking out one exactly in front, putting the 
stitch over the next needle, then knit round six or seven times, and take out the third needles 
on both sides of the one first taken out ; knit round six or seven times again and take out two 
more ; so continue to knit and take out needles till the leg is narrowed to the size desired ; you 
are then ready for the heel. For a common sock you will usually need to take out thirteen or 
fifteen needles; the number of times knitting between the needles taken out may be. determined 
by the length you wish the leg of the sock to be, which is about one hundred times round for a 
common sock. Knit the heel and foot like the ordinary sock, or make a gored foot, (see Ladies' 
Stocking). 

If a larger stocking or sock is wanted than can be knit on a circle, the top, or leg to the 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 23 

ankle, can be knit in two webs, and joined together on machine, (see knitting flat webs together). 
It* joined neatly, it can hardly be seen, when finished. 

To knit double heels and toes use two threads. 

Old lie Is and toes are quickly and nicely mended by knitting new ones on, saving much 
time and trouble. 

The minute description of this process may give an impression that the manipulation is 
complicated. This is not the case, however. Any person of ordinary intelligence, in a single 
sitting of half an hour, can knit a sock perfectly. 

LADIES' STOCKINGS. 

Before commencing a stocking you must be familiar with knitting flat as well as circular 
web. With ordinary two-thread Saxony yarn, use the fine, or 100 needle cylinder, leaving out 
one needle in the front part of the machine for the seam in the back of the stocking. Set up 
the work in the usual way, and knit around twenty times. Then knit three or four rows of 
fancy work (any stitcli the taste may dictate), then knit 100 times for the leg before narrowing. 
Now open the ring clasp ("J"), and take out one needle next to the one already out, putting the 
stitch over the next needle. liaise up twenty needles on the right hand side of those taken out, 
(so that, in reversing, the cams can pass under them without knitting), put one pin in five spaces 
or needles, to the right of those taken out. Knit as far as you 

can to the left, (being sure that you have reversed the carrier, or that it is brought in position to 
knit the opposite way). Knit back, leaving the carrier in front of the yarn-stand, and push down 
the raised needles. Then raise up twenty on the left hand side, and move the pin five needles or 
spaces to the left. Knit around to the right, reverse, and knit back to the yarn-stand, pushing 
down and raising up needles, and moving the pin as before. Continue to do this until yoii have 

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24 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting- Machine. 



knit back and forth eight times. Narrow again by talcing out two needles, one on each side of 
those already out, putting the stitches over the next needles. Knit back and forth eight times 
again, (being very careful to leave the carrier opposite the yarn-stand each time before making 
the changes). Narrow two needles again, one on each side of those already out. Knit back 
and forth eight times again, (being very careful to leave the carrier opposite the yarn-stand each 
time before making the changes); continue to do this until you have narrowed, or taken out nine- 
teen needles, knitting eight times between each narrowing. Now insert the two pins, as directed 
for flat web, and knit back and forth forty times for the ankle. Then drop off twenty-two stitches 
on eaehside, (run a thread through thesestitches,if youlike, to preventthem from rave-ling while knit- 
ting the foot,) move up thepins and knit across seventy-five times for the top of the foot. Knit the 
toe°by raising up one needle on the side with the carrier. Knit across and raise up one on that side. 
Knit back and raise up one as before. So continue until you have all up but twelve needles. 
Commence and widen out by pushing down the last needle raised up or the one on the opposite 
side from the carrier. Knit across and push down one on that side. Knit across again and push 
down one as before. Continue knitting across and pushing down needles until all but one are 
down. When you push down the last needle, take the last short loop of the selvedge (on same 
side) on the top of the foot and put it over this needle. Knit across and put the last short loop 
of the selvedge on the other side over the end needle. Knit across and put it over on the other 
side. So continue to knit across and put over the short loops of the selvedge (always being sure 
to put them over the end needle that is opposite the carrier) until you have knit sixty -seven 
times, when you are ready to form the gore. To do this, put in two needles, one on each side, 
and put the under part of the adjoining stitches over them, to form new stitches. Put the loops 
of the selvedge of the top of the foot over these needles, and knit back and forth as before. 
Then put in two needles again, one on each side, putting the under part of the next stitch over 
them, and also the loop of the selvedge as before, and knit back and forth again. Continue 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 25 

putting in needles until you have as many stitches as you dropped off from the ankle, or have 
made four new stitches on each side. You are now ready to knit the heel, by raising up one 
needle on the same side with the carrier. Knit across and raise up one on the other side. Knit 
across again and raise up one as before. Continue raising up needles until you have only eight- 
een down. Now widen out by pushing down the last needle raised up, or the one on the oppo- 
site side of the carrier. Knit across and push down one on the other side. Knit across again 
and push down one as before. Continue to do this until all of the raised needles are down. 
Knit across once or twice plain, and run it off. Sew up the leg by taking each short loop of 
the selvedge, and join the heel to the ankle with the mending stitch. (See Sock.) 

The foot can be knit without joining on the machine, then sewed by hand afterwards. 

It will make a much nicer looking seam in the back, if the narrowing is done on the third 
needle in from the selvedge, instead of taking the stitches from the edge- of the selvedge, as is 
done in the ordinary way. 

It also makes nicer looking heels and toes to push the needles (in widening) down on the 
same side with the carrier (instead of on the opposite side, as is given in directions for stock- 
ings), being very careful to lift the thread in around the needle pushed down, that it may knit 
on the backward course. More care must be used in knitting this way. 

If you wish for an extra strong selvedge at the top of the stocking, use double thread in 
setting it up. If you wish the stocking to go above the knee, or to be very long, knit more 
times before commencing to narrow. 

If you wish a quicker slope on the leg, knit less times between the narrowings. The same 
judgment should be used in knitting a stocking on the machine that would be used in knitting 
one by hand. Different sizes of yarn require more or less times knitting around. It would be 
very easy to tell how many rounds to knit, if you would knit one inch of length of the yarn to 
be used — counting the number of times required to make the inch ; then find out how many 

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26 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

inches long the sock or stocking is to be, and multiply the number of times required to make 
one inch by the number of inches ; also the foot in the same way. 

CHILDREN'S STOCKINGS. 

To knit a stocking of tlvree-thread Saxony yarn, for a child ten years old, use the fine or 
one hundred needle cylinder; knit it flat web on eighty needles; set up the work in the usual 
way; knit across twenty times plain; then put in four rows of fancy work, and kuit across one 
hundred times plain again; narrow by taking the stitch from each end needle, and putting it 
over the next; knit across six times, and narrow as before; continue to knit and narrow, knitting 
six times between, until you have narrowed ten needles on each side, or have sixty stitches left; 
knit twenty times across for ankle; then drop off sixteen stitches from each side for heel; knit 
across fifty times for the top of the foot, and narrow the toe by raising up ten needles on each 
side, which leaves eight down : widen out by pushing down the needles (see sock); then knit 
across forty-six times for the under part of the foot (joining it to the top by machine), when you 
are ready to form the gore; insert two needles on each side, and make an extra stitch .every 
time knitting across, until you have made four new stitches, when you are ready for the heel; 
narrow it down to twelve needles, then widen out again; knit across once or twice plain, then 
run it off, and close it the same as the lady's stocking. This makes a very nice stocking, 
especially for little girls. 

Seamed stockings should be knit on the fine cylinder, with every third or fourth needle out; 
knit on the circular web one hunched and twenty-five times around; then arrange the machine 
for flat web, and commence to narrow, raising up needles, and moving the pin (see lady's stock- 
ing), narrow nineteen needles, knitting five times between each narrowing; knit twenty times 
for ankle; drop off thirteen needles on each side, for heel; knit across fifty times for the top of 
the foot, then insert the needles taken out for the seams (so that the toe and bottom of foot may 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 27 

be knit plain), and narrow the toe down to eight needles, and widen out again (by raising up 
and pushing down needles); knit across forty -six times for the bottom of the foot (joining it 
to the top by machine); knit the gore as described above, then knit the heel, and run it off. In 
joining the heel to the ankle, with the mending stitch, be sure and take two stitches on the 
needle from the heel-side every time you come to a seam or where the needle was taken out. 

The leg of seamed stockings can be knit circular, and the foot knit on flat web; this shape 
does very well for boy's stockings. 

After learning to knit the sizes given, you will see how to arrange the machine for any size 
required. 

LADIES' LEGG-INS. 

For Ladies' Leggins use the coarse cylinder. Set the work up in the usual way, having the 
stitch rather long: knit around one hundred times plain: now commence to narrow by taking 
out one needle in the back part of the machine opposite the yarn-stand, putting the stitch on the 
next needle : knit around seven times, and take out the third needle on both sides of the one 
first taken out : knit around seven times again, and take out the third needle, as before : continue 
to knit and take out needles, knitting seven times between, until you have out twenty-four or 
one-third of the needles : knit around twenty-five times for the ankle : run off one-half of the 
stitches, being the twenty-four in the front part of the machine ; 

insert the pins for flat-web, being particular to see that the carrier is in proper position to knit 
before proceeding with the instep — also change the weight, as a much lighter one is required for 
the flat-web. Knit back and forth four times, and narrow by taking the stitch from each end 
needle, and puttiug it over the next : knit across four times and narrow as before : knit across 
four times again and narrow : four times again, and narrow : knit four times and rim it all off: 
finish with a knitting or crochet needle with the same worsted or yarn used, or some fancy color. 
Stripes can be knit in around the top, or a row of open work for an elastic or cord and tassel. 

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28 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

CHILDREN'S LEGG-INS. 

Fig. S. 

For Children's Leggins, use the coarse cylinder. Set the work 
up in the usual way, having every fourth needle out around the ma- 
chine. Knit twenty-five times around plain: open the ring clasp 
and insert the needles that were taken out, putting the under part of 
the adjoining stitches over them, to form new stitches : knit around 
five times plain and stop, leaving the carrier on the back part of the 
machine opposite the yarn-stand; commence the knee by raising up 
one-half of the needles in the front part of the machine ; 

and insert the pins for flat-web ; knit around to the 
left and raise up the last needle that knit: reverse and knit back to 
the right and raise up the last needle that knit on that side : knit 
back to the left and raise up the last needle again that knit on that 
side : reverse and knit back to the right and raise up as before : con- 
tinue to knit and raise up needles until you have raised Ave needles 
on each side : then commence and widen out by pushing down the 
last needle raised, or the one on the 6ide opposite from the carrier : 
knit across and push down as before ; continue to knit across aud 
push down needles until you have pushed down four on each side : 
now stop, leaving the carrier on the back part of the machine opposite 
the yarn-stand : push down the raised needles, 

take out the pins, and knit fifty times around : now narrow 

the ankle by taking out every third needle around the- machine, 

putting the stitches over the next needies : knit around forty times, when you will be ready to 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 29 



knit the instep: do this by running off half or twenty-four stitches in front: 

insert the pins for flat web ; proceed as in the instep for ladies' leggins : the 
larger the leggin required, the more times must be knit before narrowing the ankle. If a 
smaller one is required, knit it ribbed (two and one or three and one) all the way to the ankle, 
when every other needle should be taken out. If the knee is not desired, knit straight along 
(after inserting the needles that were taken out for the rib at the top,) sixty or more times, and 
narrow the ankle as described before. Leggins knit in stripes of two or more colors, are very 
pretty for children : or the centre striped and the top and ankle plain ; instead of the instep a 
regular foot can be knit where the leggin is designed for a very small child, as it is much warmer 
and more comfortable in every way. 

WRISTLETS. 

Wristlets can be knit single or double, of either silk or wool ; also knit plain, or in any 
of the fancy stitches. 

For a handsome, as well as serviceable pair of Gent's double Wristlets, use chinchilla 
and scarlet German zephyr. Knit them on the fine, or one hundred needle cylinder, with 
every other needle out, all the way around the machine. Knit eighty times around, plain ; 
then put in one row of scarlet, then two rows of chinchilla, then four rows of zig-zag stitch 
in scarlet, two rows of chinchilla, one row of scarlet, one of chinchilla, one of scarlet, then two 
of chinchilla, four rows of zig-zag stitch in scarlet, then twenty rows of chinchilla ; turn this 
twenty rows inside, and turn the other end in far enough to meet it, and join with the mend- 
ing stitch (see sock). Ladies' Wristlets can be knit double on the flat web, as forty needles 
are sufficient. 

A handsome pair of Ladies' single Wristlets are knit as follows : Use the coarse cylin- 
der, and knit them of pink and white German zephyr. Set it up flat web on forty needles ; 



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30 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Kuitting Machine. 

commence with pink, and knit four rows across plain, then four rows of cable stitch, then two 
rows of plain ; change for white, and knit two rows plain, then one row of braided stitch, 
then two rows plain ; change for pink, and knit two rows plain, then four rows of cable 
stitch, two rows plain ; change for white, and knit two rows plain, then one row of braided 
stitch, then two plain ; change for pink, knit two rows plain, four rows cable stitch, then four 
rows plain ; now knit in three rows of some other color, and commence the other one. 
Crochet the ends very loosely, and sew up the selvedge edges. 

BLOCK WORK. 

To make block work, use two colors, 
say scarlet and white; take, for example, 
twenty-four needles ; set up the work, and 
knit the first 4 stitches scarlet, the next 4 
white, the next 4 scarlet, the next 4 white 
(slipping the white yarn in back of the 
needles when knitting with scarlet, and the 
scarlet in back of the needles when knitting 
the white, which makes the work double). Knit across four times; knitting the scarlet always 
on the same needles, and the white always on the same. Now reverse the colors, and knit across 
lour times again, using white where the scarlet was before, and scarlet where the white was; 
continue to do this, reversing the colors, being careful to knit only four times across each time 
before reversing, or the blocks will not be perfect. 

Diamonds can be formed in the same way, by taking the same number of needles and 
knitting the first 5 stitches scarlet, the next stitch white, then 5 scarlet, then 1 white; 5 scarlet, 
1 white, 5 scarlet and 1 white; knit across again, having the first 2 stitches white, then 3 scarlet, 




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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting 1 Machine. 31 



3 white, 3 scarlet, 3 white, 3 scarlet, 3 white, 4 scarlet; knit back again, having the first 3 
stitches scarlet, then 5 white, 1 scarlet, 5 white, 1 scarlet, 5 white, 1 scarlet and 3 white. 
Now commence to decrease the white in the same ratio as you increased it, and you will have 
diamonds of white all the way across. In this way any figures, letters, flowers, &c, can he knit 
into a garment by following a pattern, the same as would be done by hand. 

Block work is not so fast knitting as plain work, but after a little practice one can get 
along quite rapidly. 

Children's mittens knit, and spots put in of different color, are pretty ; also leggins, with 
a row of blocks or diamonds in the centre. 

Slippers, mittens, sacques, caps, &c, are very nice, knit in this way, and they are much 
warmer and more serviceable, being double. 

The slipper represented by the cut is knit in block work — scarlet and white — and trimmed 
with ruching around the top. 

MITTENS. 

For heavy yarn use the coarse cylinder, and if for a gentleman, use the whole circle. Set 
the work up in the usual way, putting in fancy stitches or ruching for gauntlet, then take out 
every third needle to make it smaller at the wrist. Knit six or eight rows ; then insert the 
needles and knit the necessary length for the hand, (which is generally as many times around as 
there are needles in use) ; narrow and close the end like the toe of a stocking, or it can be nar- 
rowed off in two or more parts flat web (narrowing in the third needle from the selvedge) by 
narrowing (always on the side opposite from the carrier " D ") one stitch every time across 
until there are only four stitches remaining. Then cut one stitch on the 22 d row from the 
wrist, and ravel across the mitten one third of the stitches for the thumb, allowing three fourths 
of these stitches for the inside of the hand. Take up the stitches on the top or part toward the 



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32 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

wrist on as many needles, and knit as many times across as yon have needles in use ; then nar- 
row down to nine needles, run it off (leaving yarn enough to sew it up) and draw the yarn 
through these nine stitches. Sew up the selvedge edges of the thumb, leaving enough loops to 
close with the under half of the stitches that were raveled across, thus forming a gore, and fin- 
ishing up the thumb. For ladies' or children's mittens, they should be knit in a flat web and 
closed up. In this way you can •knit in the gore by widening on each side of the selvedge ; 
when you have widened enough stitches for the thumb, drop them off and proceed to knit the 
hand and narrow it oft'; now take up these stitches that you widened, and knit the thumb as 
before; close up the mittens, always being careful to mate them. 

Example : For a child twelve years old, take forty-four needles (coarse cylinder), set Tip 
the work and knit across ten times ; then put in five or six rows of fancy work (zig-zag or some 
other stitch), then three rows plain. Now take out every other needle and knit across eight 
times for wrist. Put in needles and knit fifty times for hand ; raise up one half of the needles, 
(counting from the selvedge), narrow like toe of stocking, or on flat web down to four stitches, 
then do the same with the other half. Cut one stitch on the 21st row from the wrist down, and 
ravel thirteen stitches for thumb, (being careful to have ten of these stitches for the inside of the 
hand) ; take up the upper half of stitches, (or those toward the wrist), knit across twenty-two times, 
then narrow down to seven stitches ; leave enough yarn to sew up thumb, run it off and draw 
the yarn through the seven stitches, and sew up as directed above. 

Long wrists can be knit with either fancy stitches or niching, or the whole mitten can be 
knit of niching, which makes it look like the old-fashioned Fringe Mitten. 

To knit double mittens use two threads. Striped or plaid double mittens are knit by using 
two threads, and knitting on a certain number of needles a certain number of times. For exam- 
ple : knit three stitches scarlet, and the next three white, three more scarlet and three more 
white, and so continue all the way around the machine, which will form stripes, or if you want 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting 1 Machine. 33 



plaids or squares, (see block work), knit three stitches scarlet, three white, three scarlet and 
three white all the way around the machine ; knit this three times, and then reverse the colors . 
If you want larger plaid, use more needles for each color, always remembering to knit around as 
many times as you have needles of each color, if you want perfect squares or plaids. Diamonds, 
monograms, etc., can be formed in the same way. 

GLOVES. 

Gloves are knit like the mittens as far 
J as the wrist, when you commence widen- 
ing on both sides of the selvedge for the 
thumb. Widen out one stitch each time 
across until you have enough for the 
thumb ; run these widened stitches off 
and knit across ten or twelve times. Now 
divide the stitches for the lingers, and 
Fi g- 7 - ~^^W knit each one separately, and close like 

the thumb. In taking up the stitches for the fingers, use two more needles (one on each side) 
than there are stitches, and make stitches on them for the gore, by putting the upper part of 
the adjoining stitches below, on them. The back of the glove can be knit with some fancy 
stitch, or stripes of different colors can be knit in them. 

The cut given represents a glove — the hand part is knit plain ; the gauntlet is knit in two 
pieces and joined on the back where it is narrowed ; it is knit of two colors in the zig-zag stitch; 
around the wrist and top of the gauntlet it is trimmed with a narrow strip of tufting of two 
colors, ind a bow on the back. 




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34 



Illustrated Instruction Book for the IJickford Family Knitting Machine. 



RUCHING- OR TUFTED WORK 



To knit Ruching or Tufted work, we have a number of 
different ways. Set up the work on from three to any num- 
ber of needles, say, for example, ten ; knit across, bringing 
the carrier (D) to the left hand side ; take the yarn from the 
carrier and loop it over the first needle on the left hand side, 
then over your finger or tufter (sent for the purpose), then 
over the next needle and your finger or tufter again, and so 
continue till your yarn is back to the first needle at the 
right, where you begin to knit ; now turn the carrier (Dj 
round to the needles, holding the yarn in the left hand, so 
that the carrier (D) in passing through will take it, and knit 
across to bind in the loops. Be sure to hold down the finger 
or tufter that the loops are on, so that the needles can pass 
up through the loops, and knit them in. You can put your 
Fig ' a worsted or yarn over each needle two or three times, as you 

wish, or you can knit in diamonds, squares, or monograms of different colors. You can make 
the loops as long or as short as you please, also use as many colors as will suit the taste. 

These strips of R< .ihing or Tufted work can be used to trim cloaks, coats, dresses, or 
anything that you would use Astracan or Fur for ; or can be made into muffs, collars, 
wristers, caps, fringe, mittens, etc. Carriage robes can be knit or made from these strips of 
Ruching, in fancy colors or plain ; also carriage and door mats. 

In knitting this work you can use one thread for the foundation, and others for the loops, 
if _ required, or use the one thread for both foundation and loops. Strips of this tufting, with 
fringe attached to the edge of it, make elegant trimmings,for dresses, etc. 




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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickforcl Family Knitting Machine. 35 



The Hood represented in cut is make of herring-bone stitch, and trimmed with Kuching 
made of white, with a scarlet square or block knit in it. 

FRINGE. 

In knitting fringe you can use from two to thirty needles, according to the width of 
heading desired. Place the number of needles required for the heading, in the front part of 
the machine; put three or more needles in the back part, directly opposite ; start up your 
work by using a piece of knit work, as before described, or by looping a thread over a needle 
then down around the weight-hook, etc. ; now put your yarn into the lower eye of carrier 
(D) and turn your machine to the right, (being very careful that the first needle forms a 
perfect stitch) ; continue m this way until you have as long a strip as you require. If you 
wish two or more colors, knit around so many times with one color, and then put on the next 
color; so proceed, being particular to knit each one a given number of times, if you wish it to 
look nice Ravel out the stitches from the needles in the back part, and tie from two to six 
01 these threads together, being careful to knot them close to the heading. If you wish 
rringe half this length, use needles both in front and back of the machine, and cut it in the 
middle If a longer fringe is wanted, use more needles in the back part of the machine, and 
ravel them out when finished. In this way, fringe any length desired, can be knit. The 
weight-hook will generally be sufficient weight to hold it down ; if, however, more is needed, 
put 011 the buckle " F.' Be very careful to knot it close. You can knit fringe in a flat web, 
with lancy stitch for heading. After learning to knit flat web, you will readily see how you 
cjiii do it. 

CORD. 

In making cord, one, two, three, four or five needles can be used ; one will make a chain, 
two a square stitch, three a perfectly round cord, four a square cord, and five round on one 



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36 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting: Machine. 

side and flat on the other. Put the number of needles required, in the back part of the 
machine ; start it up by looping the thread first over a needle, then down around the weight- 
hook, and up around the next needle, etc. ; then put the yarn through the upper eye of 
carrier U D," being careful that the first needle forms a perfect stitch ; turn the machine to 
the right with the right hand, and hold the yarn in the left hand, drawing it just enough to keep 
it straight between the carrier D and needles, so as to make the last stitch the same as the 
others, and also to draw the thread close as the machine passes round from the last needle to 
the first. If you wish it flat on the back side, ycu can leave the back loop a little longer, or 
knit directly backward and forward. This will be easily understood when you have your 
machine ready for use This cord can be used for picture or curtain cords, and made of 
different colors or can be made into mats, etc. You can also knit around elastic and other 
cords, with silk or worsted, or around wire tubing, or anything of the kind. The take-up 
''JEt, ' can be used in taking up the slack yarn that occurs in going around the cylinder, but 
the hand will be found more reliable. 

CIRCULAR AND SQUARE MATS, TIDIES, TOILET SETS, &c. 

can be made of any material, in either plain or fancy stitch, to suit the taste. 

For a circular mat, of ordinary size, use twenty-five needles, and these needles should be 
placed in the back part of the machine. Put the machine in order for flat web, 

and inserting the pins "N, N," one on either side, four spaces beyond the 
needles: set up the work in the usual way, using a very light weight; knit across several times, 
being careful that the last row brings the carrier D to the left hand side, where you begin to 
narrow; do this by raising the last needle knit, knit across to the right (being careful to hold 
the thread tight around the needle you have raised, so as to make a nice selvedge), then back to 

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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 37 

the left, and raise up the last needle knit ; then knit across to the right again and back to the 
left, and raise up the last needle knit. Continue to do this, holding the work down as in knitting 
a round heel (see heel), until you have raised four-fifths or twenty of the needles, the remaining 
five being left for fringe; this completes one division, and if you wish the mat of two colors, break 
the thread and tie on the other color close to the needles; now push down ail the needles raised 
(being careful that the latches are down), and knit across to the left; raise up the last needle 
Icnit, and knit across to the right, then back to the left, and raise up the last needle knit again. 
Continue to do this until you have raised up twenty needles, as before, and change the color, 
being sure to tie it close to the needles ; push down all the raised needles (being careful that the 
latches are down) ; then knit across and narrow as before. To complete the circle it requires 
six divisions, three of each color ; after having completed these divisions, push down the raised 
needles and knit across plain once or twice to allow for any mishap you might have in taking 
the work from the machine, which is done by breaking the thread and turning the handle as in 
knitting. Join the last division to the first with the menchng stitch (see the toe of the sock), 
leaving the five open for fringe ; after joining the twenty stitches you should press the mat 
thoroughly, so as to make the fringe crimp nicely. If the time can be spared, it is better to lay 
them away for a day or two, after pressing, before raveling out the fringe, which is done by com- 
mencing at the open space, holding the right side of the mat toward you, and raveling toward 
the left; the longer the mat is loft, after pressing, before raveling, the nicer the fringe will crimp. 

These mats can be made with twelve divisions, by raising two needles at a time — or twenty- 
four by raising four needles at a time — but the mat with twelve divisions is the one most in favor. 
As many as sixty needles can be used, if required. 

Handsome toilet sets can be made ; one mat on 35, and two mats on 25 needles. 

Square Mats can be made by having four divisions, and narrowing and widening all of the 
needles in each division, by raising up and pushing down needles (as in heels), being particular 

95 

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38 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

to commence raising up needles on the second division as soon as the last needle is pushed down 
on the first one, or it will leave an open place in the centre of the mat. Each division can be 
made of a different color, if desired. For a fringe : when the needles are arranged for the mat, 
place two extra needles five spaces to the right of the others for, fringe needles. Knit the mat 
and fringe at the same time, putting in fancy stitches around the edge of mat for a border, if 
desired ; when finished, ravel out the two stitches made by the fringe needles, and knot it close 
to the heading (see fringe) ; or, a fringe can be knit flat web, with fancy heading, and knit to the 
mat (see knitting flat webs together). When the fringe for one side of mat has been knit, a 
square corner should be turned on the fringe (by raising up and pushing down needles), thus 
making the mat, when finished, perfectly square. Thus the fringe can be formed while knitting, 
as described, or it can be knit in flat web. 

Table or lamp mats can be made of heavy cotton thread, making the fringe (see fringe) of 
some fancy colored zephyr or tliread, and sewing it or crocheting it on the mat. By sewing it 
on it can be removed when the mat is washed. 

Very handsome tidies can be knit by making several small mats on ten or twelve needles, 
using one for the centre and joining others around it: they can be knit together as they are 
made, or crocheted with fancy colors. 

Any one knitting these mats and tidies, will find there is really no limit to the styles and 
lands that can be produced. 

AFGHANS, BLANKETS, SPREADS, &c. 

Afghans, &c, can be knit in a variety of ways, of any material and in either a plain or 
fancy stitch. They can be knit in a circular web, then laid flat and crocheted, sewed or knit to- 
gether, or put together with a cord. When afghans are knit circular web, one half of the circle 

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can be knit in a fancy stitch, and talcing this half for the right side when put together ; in this 
way each stripe can he knit of a different color, also a different fancy stitch, which makes a very 
handsome afghan when put together neatly. They can also be knit flat web, in either stripes or 
blocks of plain or fancy stitches, and knit together on the machine, (see knitting flat web to- 
gether). They can be finished with fringe, or narrow the end of each stripe to a point, and put 
on tassels. Bed and all kinds of blankets and spreads, piano and table covers, rugs, etc., are knit 
in a similar way. 

DUSTERS. 

Dusters can be made of yarn or worsted, knit on a close stitch and pressed, then raveled out, 
the edge fastened to a handle, putting a piece of fancy work around the top for heading. They 
will be found superior to feather dusters, as they collect the dust much better ; old yarns can be 
used up in this way ; dish-cloths made of cotton in the same way will be found very convenient. 

TIDIES. 

In knitting tidies a great deal depends upon the skill and taste of the operator, and there 
are so many different styles and ways of knitting them that it will be impossible to describe 
them all. One very handsome sfyle is knit in the herring-bone stitch, of scarlet and white Ger- 
man zephyr, using twenty-one needles and changing the loops four times each way before re- 
versing, (see herring-bone stitch). Knit eighteen points on each stripe and knit five stripes, two 
of white and three of scarlet, joining together on the machine by connecting the points; narrow 
the ends of each stripe to a point, and put on tassels. 

Another is : take the same number of needles, knit two stripes with the diamond stitch, 
making five diamonds in each one, and kmt three stripes of blue with the plain stitch ; join 



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40 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 

these together on machine (see knitting flat webs together), narrow the ends of each stripe to a 
point, and put on tassels. Tidies made of cotton in this way are very handsome and serviceable; 
any number of needles can be used ; also knit as long as required. 

Another is : use twenty needles, knit with green zephyr across thirty times, (which will 
make a square), then put in white, and knit across thirty times with that ; put the green in 
again and knit as before ; so continue to knit and change the colors until you have seven 
squares, three of white and four of green ; then knit another stripe in the same manner, only re- 
versing the colors, making three of green and four of white, and so on, making as many stripes 
as there are squares in a stripe ; finish with a fringe or tassels. A tidy made this way, with a 
small diamond knit in each white square, is very pretty. An ingenious person can devise an 
almost infinite variety of styles and designs. 

SCARFS. 

GENT'S PLAIN SCARP is knit circular on all the needles, then laid flat and finished with fringe or 
tassels. You can put different colors, as well as ornamental stitches, monograms, etc., in the ends, making 
them very pretty. Fancy scarfs can be knit of the herring-bone, diamond, zig-zag, spiral, or any of the other 
fancy stitches, and made up single or double. THE SPRAY STITCH SCARF is knit by putting the stitch 
over two needles instead of one, being careful that the yarn does not cling, and thereby form new stitches. 
Tins can be finished with tassels or fringe. THE SHELL SCARF is knit with two needles in and four out all 
around the machine ; when done, turn wroug side out and finish with tassels. This is very pretty for children. 
THE SCALLOPED SCARF is very pretty knit on all the needles, by simply changing the length of stitch, 
knitting from two to eight or more courses on a short stitch, and five, six, or more on the very longest. If 
made of split zephyr on the fine cylinder, they make a very handsome scarf for ladies. You can also knit pretty 
scarfs with every other needle out, two iu and two out, three in and three out, or any way suggested by the 
taste of the operator. Many of them look nice turned inside out, and can be finished with fringe or tassels. 



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41 



CABLE STITCH 



LOCUST STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence by 
taking the stitches from every other needle and putting 
them over jthe next; then knit around once, forming loops 
on the empty needles; remove these loops to the next 
needles, being sure to put them all the same way. Knit 
around again, and remove the loops as before. Continue 
to knit and remove the loops (putting them always the same 
way) ; or, you can knit six rows cable stitch, and six plain, 
all the way around the machine, which makes very pretty 
work for undersleeves, or anything knit tubular. Only a 
light weight is necessary. 



Take, for example', twenty-four needles. Commence the 
work on flat web, and knit across three or four times plain ; 
then raise up two needles, and leave two down, all the way 
across the work; knit across twice. Now push down all 
the raised needles, and knit across once. Raise up the 
same needles as before, and knit twice across; push down 
the raised needles, and knit across once, as before. Con- 
tinue to do this until the piece is the desired length. 

Be very careful that all the needles that are down form 
perfect work. A heavy weight is necessary. 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



ZIG-ZAG STITCH 



FILIGREE STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence as 
before, by taking the stitches from every other needle and 
putting them over the next; knit around once, forming 
loops; remove these loops all to the right over the next 
needles; knit. again and remove the loops all to the left; so 
continue to knit and remove the loops, first to the right, 
then to the left, and so on. This stitch is very pretty for 
cotton tidies, hoods, capes, etc. Only a light weight is 
necessary. * 



Take, for example, twenty needles. Commence the work 
as before, knitting plain a number of times. Now com- 
mence by raising up two needles and leave one down, then 
the next two,, and leave the next one down, and so on, two 
up and one down, all the way across the work. Knit across 
twice, push down the raised needles, and knit across once. 
Raise up the same needles as before, knit across twice, and 
push down the needles, as before; knit across once, and 
again raise the same needles So continue, being very care- 
ful that all the needles that are down form perfect work. 
A heavy weight is necessary. 



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43 



CHAIN STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence as 
before, by taking the stitches from every other needle and 
putting them over the next; knit around once, forming 
loops on the empty needles ; remove the first loop to the 
right, the next to the left, and so on around the machine, 
which brings three threads around every other needle ; 
knit across again and remove the first loop to the left, and 
the next to the right ; continue to knit and remove the 
loops, reversing them every time, being careful to com- 
mence every time on the same needle. Also be careful that 
the needles that have three threads on them, form perfect 
work. Use sufficient weight to keep it down properly. 



LATTICE STITCH. 






L i ;,X. A ';=>1i«.,.>i ;>l '-A- ':;%.■ >l. ,A .-A A. . . 






Take, for example, twenty needles. Commence as before, 
knitting four or five times across plain ; then raise up every 
other needle, knit across twice, push down the raised 
needles, and knit across once ; raise up the same needles as 
before, knit across twice, push down the needles, and knit 
across once ; raise up needles again, knit across twice, and 
so on, being careful to raise the same needles each time, 
using sufficient weight to keep the work down, so that the 
needles knitting, will form perfect stitches. 

This stitch, made on the fine cylinder, with every other 
needle out, is better for many uses. 



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44 



Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting 1 Machine. 



BRAIDED STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty-one needle's. After knitting 
plain a few rows, to get the work well started, eommenee 
by taking the stitches from every other needle, and putting 
them over the next; then knit around once, forming loops 
on 1 the needles from whieh the stitches were taken; then 
knit once more, binding the loops in ; now remove the 
stitches again, and knit around as before ; continue remov- 
ing the stitches and knitting as described, being particular 
to reverse the stitches every time. In this way you can 
form diamonds, squares, monograms, or any letter or figure 
you wish. 



BIRD'S EYE STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence as 
before, knitting across four or five times, plain ; raise up 
every other needle and knit across twice ; push down these 
needles and raise up the other ones, and knit across twice 
again ; push down these needles and raise up the others, 
and so continue to knit across and raise up needles, revers- 
ing the needles each time. Use a heavy weight. 



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45 



HONEYCOMB STITCH. 



DIAMOND STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence as 
before, and knit across four or five times, plain; then raise 
up three needles and leave three down, all the way across 
the work; knit across three times, push clown the needles 
that were raised, and raise up the other three ; knit across 
three times, as before, push down the raised needles and 
raise up the other ftiree ; knit across three times again, and 
so continue to push down and raise up needles, knitting 
three times across each time. A heavy weight is necessary. 



Take, for example, fifteen needles, which, for convenience, can be placed 
in the back part of the machine ; take the stitch from the centre or eighth | 
needle, and put it over the next one to it on the left-hand side; knitl 
across once, forming a loop on the empty needle; knit back, binding this | 
loop in or forming a perfect stitch on it. Now (counting from right to * 
left) remove the stitches from the seventh and ninth needles to the right;! 
knit across, forming loops; then knit back, to bind them in. Now re- J 
move the stitches from the sixth, eighth and tenth needles to the left; | 
knit across twice, as before; remove the fifth, seventh, ninth and eleventh 
stitches to the right; knit across twice, as before. Now decrease the dia- 
mond by removing the stitches from the sixth, eighth and tenth needles 
(counting from right to left), and put them to the left; knit across twice; 
then remove the stitches from the seventh and ninth needles and put them 
to the right. Now remove the centre or eighth needle to the left, knit acr 
twice, and the diamond is complete. Only a light weight is necessary. 



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46 



Illustrated Instruction Rook for the Hick ford Family Knitting: Machine. 



BULL'S EYE STITCH. 



PINEAPPLE STITCH. 




Take, for example, twenty needles. Commence as be- 
fore, knitting four or five times across, plain ; raise up two 
needles and leave two down; knit across twice, push down 
the raised needles and raise up the other two ; knit across 
twice again; push down these needles and raise up the 
other two, and so continue pushing down and raising up 
needles and knitting twice across. Use a heavy weight. 



Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence as 
directed before, by taking the stitches from every other 
needle and putting them over the next ; knit around once, 
forming loops ; then remove the first loop to the right, the 
next to the left, the next to the right, and the next to the 
left, and so continue all the way around the web; knit 
again and remove the loops as before ; knit again and re- 
move as before. Now knit and remove the first loop to the 
left, the next to the right, the next to the left, and the 
next to the right, as many times as before ; continue placing 
them three times or more one way, then three or more 
times the other way, being careful that you commence to 
remove them on the same needle every time, and that the 
needles that have the three threads on them perform perfect 
w ork. 



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47 



HERRING-BONE STITCH, 




Take, for example, twenty-one needles. Commence as 
before, by taking the stitches from every other needle, and 
putting them over the next; knit around once, forming 
loops over the empty needles ; remove these loops all to the 
right, over the next needles; knit again, and remove the 
loops as before ; do this three or more times to the right, 
then three or more times to the left, and so on. 

You can knit a flat web, and form scallops on each edge, 
the size of scallops to be regulated by the number of times 
knitting and removing the loops before reversing them, 
four or five times makes a very pretty scallop. These scal- 
lops can be knit together by joining the points of the 
scallops, or can be fitted to each other so as to be impossible 
to tell where they are joined. In this way a breakfast cape, 
or shawl, etc., etc., can be knit, having the centre all one 
color, and the border different. Only light weight is ne- 
cessary. 



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48 



Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



LINK AND BAND WORK. 

Place twenty needles in the back part 
of the machine, leaving one groove of the 
needle cylinder between each needle, (or 
with every other needle out). Prepare the 
machine for flat web; the take-up is not 
used because a very loose stitch is required. 
The material used should be double zephyr 
or a very coarse yarn ; then knit six times 
across, plain, leaving the carrier " D " to 
the right ; raise up one half of the needles 
to the left, and then knit across to the left; 
then raise up the five last needles to the 
right. Move up the pins on either side, to 
within five spaces of the needles to be used , knit across thirty-two times, (holding the work 
down with the hand while knitting), which brings the carrier " t> " to the left ; push down the 
five needles to the right, (move back the pin), and knit across to the right : now push down the 
ten needles to the left, (move back the pin,) and knit across six times, plain. We now have a 
strip of knit work in the centre, detached from the ground-work, and we wish to make another 
strip just above, on the left side of it : First, we raise up one half needles on the right. Knit 
across to the right and raise up the last five needles to the left. Move up the pins on either 
side again, and knit across thirty-two times ; break the yarn and run these five stitches off, and 
pass this last strip of knit work through the one knit before, and pick up the stitches again on 
the same needles (being careful not to twist it); join the yarn, push down the needles as before, 




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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 49 

and knit across six times, plain, (always remembering to move back tbe pins) ; so proceed until 
the work is finished. The links will curl by themselves, wrong side out. You can use as many 
needles as you like, and have the links much larger, if required. 

The Link and Band work forms nice stripes for Afghans, Sofa Pillow Covers, &c, &c.; also 
makes a very handsome border (see cover of book) for mats, tidies, cushions, bed-spreads, &c., 
&c. The links can be joined in a variety of ways, to suit the taste of the operator. 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



LADY'S OR GENT'S UNDER-VESTS. 




Fig. 9 represents a Lady's or Gent's Under- Vest, knit of Sax- 
ony yarn, in two pieces (flat web), and joined at the sides. The 
sleeves are alS" knit flat web and joined. Long sleeves could be 
knit, if required ; also made in some fancy stitch. If made 
high in the neck, it must be left open down the front. 



INFANT'S SHIRT. 






Fig. lO. 



Fig. 10 represents an Infant's Shirt, made of split 
zephyr, with border of herring-bone stitch. The 
sleeves are made in flat web, and joined in at the 
shoulder. Long sleeves can be made, if necessary ; 
also high in the neck. 



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51 




Fig. 11. 



GORED SKIRT. 

Fig. 11 represents a skirt knit of white Saxony yarn in the 
plain stitch, narrowed down and knit together by machine, 
(see knitting flat webs together). It is knit in four breadths; 
the front one is narrowed on both sides, the others plain. 
Stripes can be knit in (sec Balmoral work), or strips of fancy 
work knit and sewed on. It is better to sew them on, as 
they can be easily removed when you wish to wash the skirt. 
The binding can be knit on to the skirt or a muslin one 
sewed on. In this way skirts of any size, and knit of any 
material, can be made in cither plain or fancy stitch. 



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Illust rated strnction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



BABY'S BOOT. 




Fig. 12. 



Fig. 12 represents an Infant's Boot or Shoe, knit of 
double zephyr, flat web, the foot gored like a child's 
stocking. The top is knit in zig-zag stitch, and turned 
down, with cord and tassel. The top is ornamented with 
three cords, braided together. 



LADY'S SOCK, OR OVER-SHOE. 




Fig. 13. 



Lady's Over-shoe, knit of brown zephyr, commenced at 
the back, flat web. Knit thirty or forty times, then narrow 
down to five needles, and widen out again by raising up 
and pushing down needles (see heel) ; then join at back, 
and knit the top or ankle in the honey-comb stitch, keep- 
ing the plain knitting side for the outside. The sole is 
knit of tufted work, and sewed on with the tufts inside, 
which makes it very warm and comfortable. In this way, 
inner soles for boots and shoes can be knit; also, Ladies' 
and Gent's Slippers with knit soles. 



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53 



LADY'S CORSET. 




Fig. 14. 

Fig. 14 represents a Lady's Corset, knit of scarlet zephyr, 
in the plain stitch, and narrowed and widened on the side, 
to shape it. The straps for the shoulders are knit in flat 
web ; then make a row of braided stitches up the back, to 
form eyelets for the lacings. 



SUSPENDERS. 




Fig. 13. 



Fig. 15 represents a pair of Suspenders, knit flat web, of 
German zephyr, in the bird's-eye stitch. If more elasticity 
is needed than you get from this stitch, make it double 
width, and close it in the circle, or knit in a strip of rubber 
cord. 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Biekford Family Knitting Machine. 



CHILD'S SACQTJE. 





Fig. 16. F >9- 17 - 

Figs. 16 & 17 represent the front and back of a Child's Sacqne with hood, knit of double 
zephyr, and ornamented with cord and a strip made in herring-bone stitch; also, cord and 
tassels. It is knit flat web, and is narrowed and widened on the shoulder; also, the side seams 
and back. Sleeves also knit flat web. Sacques can be knit of any color, and in any pattern 
desired. Infants' Sacques knit of split zephyr, and on the fine cylinder, are very pretty. 



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55 



LADY'S JACKET. 




Fig. 18.. 




Figs. 18 & 19 represent the front evnd hack of a jacket knit in the bird's-eye stitch, of chinchilla 
worsted, and trimmed with tufting made of white with black spots (sheared), in imitation of 
ermine fur. It is narrowed and widened to shape, and closed under the arms, on the shoulders, 
and down the back. The vest in front is knit of scarlet, and trimmed with niching and cord. 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Blckford Family Knitting Machine. 



CHILDREN'S HOODS. 




Fig. 20. 

Fig. 20 represents a Hood made of German worsted, 
knit the zig-zag stitch on fine cylinder, trimmed with a 
strip of tufting all around and over the top ; a row of eye- 
lets around for cord and tassels; it is knit in flat web, and 
narrowed and widened on the back (like heel). 



CHILD'S DRESS. 




Fig. 21. 

Tig. 21 represents a Child's Dress. The yoke. belt, and bottom of skirt 
is made of blue and black worsted, in fancy stitch ; the balance, plain blue. 
The skirt is knit in five breadths ; the front one is gored or narrowed on 
both sid. s— the two side ones on one side and the two back plain. It is 
ornamented with cord and narrow ruching ; the skirt is knit together ' 
knitting flat webs together). These knitted dresses a/e very 
serviceable. Can be made. plain or of some fancy stitch. 



and 



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Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 57 

CHANGING- CYLINDERS. 

We have a number of different cylinders, both coarse and fine. To change one cylinder 
for the other, first take out the needles as before directed, lift oft* the cant or revolving cylinder 
H, and unscrew the yarn stand B ; then turn the machine upside down, take out the two screws 
that hold the cylinder I in place and remove it ; take the screws from the other cylinder and 
place the bed-plate of the machine upon it, being careful to have the screw-holes in the same 
places in which the others were, and see that the cylinder fits closely to the shoulder all around; 
put in the screws and the other set of needles in place of those removed, and it is ready for use. 

HINTS TO BEGINNERS. 

Be very particular, in winding the bobbin, to follow the directions closely. 

In setting up the work be sure that the carrier " D " is as represented in the cut, or is just 
ahead of the front swing-cam "M." Do not overlook this point, as the yarn will not be 
properly carried to the needles, thus causing them to drop stitches. 

Before starting the work see that all the latches of the needles are down. 

See that the yarn is in the upper eye of carrier "D," as the lower eye is used only when 
knitting fringe ; and if. through mistake or carelessness, the yarn gets in the lower eye, it will 
cause the machine to drop stitches, because it carries the yarn too low. 

Be sure that the stitch is the proper length for the yarn or material used. 

Be sure that the yarn is placed in the eye of yarn-stand " B," directly over the bobbin 
from which you wish to knit. 

Do not use the take-up in knitting circular web or fancy stitches. 

In knitting the heel, if the machine comes to a stop, and cannot be moved, you will pro- 



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58 Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting: Machine. 



bably find that one of the raised needles has got pushed down a litttle, by accident or other- 
wise, and interferes with the passing of the cams ; raise the needle and proceed to knit._ 

If a mistake is made while knitting, and it is necessary to ravel the work back, it is very 
easily done by first raising up out of action, all the needles that do not need to be raveled ; 
then remove the weights, and, taking the yarn from the carrier " D," pull it back over the hook 
of each needle, causing the underneath stitch to drop back over the same needle again. 
After a little practice, any one can ravel back as far they wish, without dropping a stitch. 

MATERIALS, &c 

We have on hand a large assortment of common and fancy yarns, worsteds, etc., which we 
furnish our customers very low. 

Knitting machine oil, prepared expressly for the Bickford Machine, for sale at ten cents 
per bottle, or one dollar per dozen. _ . 

Machine needles at sixty cents per dozen. "When needles are ordered by mail, the price 
and return postage should accompany the order, always being particular to state what size 
needle is wanted. 

All pieces or parts of the machine can he replaced at very little expense, by sending the 
broken part to our Office, thus avoiding the necessity of sending the whole machine. 



Copyright Secured. 



Illustrated Instruction Book for the Bickford Family Knitting Machine. 



59 



RULE FOR MEASUREMENT. 

As it is impossible to give the exact number of times to knit, and number of needles to use in forming 
different sizes of garments, we give you a form of measurement, which if understood and followed closely, will 
enable you to fit any article or garment desired. In the first place, take the measure the same as a tailor or a 
dressmaker would, by getting the number of inches in length, width, etc., and put them down in plain figures. 
Set up the work on a few needles with the yarn to be used, (if coarse, use the coarse cylinder, if fine, the fine 
cylinder) being particular to have the stitch the exact length you wish it in the garment, and knit an inch or 
two in length, run it off and with a rule measure one inch in length and one in breadth, then count the stitches 
each way in that inch. Thus if it takes 7 needles to make one inch in width, and 12 times knitting across to 
make one inch in length, and your article is 8 inches wide and 20 inches long, you must use 56 needles and knit 
across 240 times. , 

3 inches. 

The example given is half of the back of a Ladies' Jacket. (See page 55). 
It is 6 inches wide at the waist (and using the coarse cylinder with heavy German- 
town yarn,) there are 7 needles to the inch, hence you must use 42 needles with 
which to commence. Being 9 inches wide at the shoulder, it will require 63 
needles at that point, and as it is 9 inches in length from the waist to the 
shoulder, and takes 12 rows of knitting to form one inch, it will require 108 
rows of knitting to reach from the waist to the shoulder, and must be widened 
out 21 needles in knitting; or about one in every fifth row to make the desired 
width at this point. And being 3 inches, requiring 21 needles in width at the 
neck, and 6 inches in length from shoulder to neck, it takes 72 rows of knitting, 
and to be narrowed 42 stitches to complete it. The other half must be knit in 
the same way, only taking care to widen and narrow on the opposite side, and 
joined together by the machine. (See knitting flat webs together). 

The above rule applies to every material, and to either plain or fancy stitch. 




Copyright Secured. 



BICKPORD'S IMPROVED AUTOMATIC 
FAMILY KNITTING MACHINE 

The Original, Most Perfect, and ONLY Legitimate Family Knitting Machine. 

COVERED BY TWENTY-SEVEN LETTERS PATENT ON THE MACHINE AND ITS WORK. 

It will knit 20,000 stitches of Perfect Work per minute, from Cotton, Wool, Linen, or Silk. 

It knits a flat web with selvedge on both edges, and all kinds of Tabular and Fancy Work. 

It is simple and durable in construction, easily kept in repair, and will last A life-time ! It will knit a stocking, with 
heel and toe complete, in from five to ten minutes. . 

The Machine is warranted to be in perfect order, and to do just what is represented. 

Each Machine is accompanied by a book of full illustrated instructions, by which any one can readily learn to operate. 

Caution to Infringers — Biekford's Machine, with all Improvements thereon, to which we hold Exclusive license under 
all his numerous Letters Patent, is the only legitimate Family Knitting Machina, in cylindrical form, in existence. No 
other has ever been made which is not a direct and palpable infringement, in every one of its essential parts, of our rights. 
We therefore warn all persons against manufacturing, buying, selling, or using any machine infringing our rights under and 
by virtue of the several Letters Patent aforesaid, on pain of the full penalties of the law. 

We offer this Knitting Machine to the Public in the fullest confidence of its absolute, unquestioned superiority over all 
machines of the kind that hive ever been manufactured. It is intended to be eminently and emphatically a Family Knit- 
ting Machine, designed to meet completely a known and long-felt domestic want. Its practical utility in the manufacture 
of substantial hosiery, in which it stands without a rival, is, 6f course, its chief recommendation. But this is only one out 
of the multiplied uses to which it may be applied. There is scarcely an article of fancy apparel or household adornment 
that cannot be made upon it with perfect facility and ease. The taste and ingenuity of the operator are the only limit to the 
variety of style and quality of the work it may be put to do. . ■ u 

There is scarcely any kind of female industry which in so large a degree combines recreation with work, pleasure with 
profit, occupation for the mind without weariness of the body, and utilizes the small intervals of time that otherwise would 
be spent in idleness, as the peculiarly domestic employment of knitting. The frugal and industrious matron vyill busy her- 
self at odd times and spare moments in nimbly plying the needles in making stockings, mittens, and other articles of wear- 
ing apparel for the comfort of the family ; while the lady of wealth will occupy her leisure in the more elaborate fancy 
crochet work, and find amusemeut iu devising some new form of stitch to apply to novel articles for ornamental use. 

The old methods, however, are too slow for real economy, and the necessity has arisen for a more rapid method of pro- 
ducing useful and ornamental knit-work by mechanical means, which will iu an equal degree combine pleasure and profit 



without -weariness. This result is completely attained in the improved and perfected Bickfohd Knitting Machines, which 
we now offer to the public. 

The new and improved machine now manufactured by this Company exhibits the very finest workmanship, and is 
designed to meet every want of the household. Every known improvement is embodied in it, making it by far the most 
simple, durable, and efficient Knitting Machine ever placed in maiket. 

It is so arranged that the work is easily and quickly set up, and will make any stitch, plain or fancy, that can possibly 
be knit by hand. It will also narrow or widen to form any shape or garment required (including stockings and socks of 
every size and material, with heel and toe complete), and using from seventy-two to two hundred needles. 

Thus the following articles, with scores of others, may he readily produced upon it : 

Socks, Stockings, Mittens, Leggins, Wristlets, Gloves, Scarfs, Tidies, Fringes, Slippers, Sashes, Capes, Drawers, Under- 
shirts, Skirts, Trimmings, Tuftings, Toilet and Lamp Mats, Skating Caps, Afghans, Breakfast Shawls, Nubias, Blankets, 
Smoking-caps, Cushion and Ottoman Covers, Suspenders, Looped Trimmings, Carriage and Door Mats, Muffs and Collars', 
Table and Piano Covers, Hoods, Ladies', Gentlemen's, and Children's Underwear of every kind, and many other articles, 
with either plain or ribbed, close or open work, of various sizes, with either coarse or fine yarn of Woolen, Cotton Linen or 
Silk. 

Any of the above articles may be beautifully varied in an infinite variety of designs in form, color, and stitch, according 
to the capacity, skill, and taste of the operator. Stockings and other articles knit on this Machine can be made in any desired 
size or shape, and do not require to be stretched and moulded on " forms," as is the case with goods made on poor imitation 
Machines. 

As the yarn is not strained at all in knitting, it may he raveled out and knit over again, fifty times if desired Hence, we 
may knit to old socks new heels or toes, or new feel, if desirable, and any old garment, when worn out in service of one kind, may be 
raveled out and knit over into blankets, or any of the other forms so useful in a family. 

No argument is now required to convince the public of the great value of Sewing Machines. And when the capacity of 
Bickfoeh's Knitting Machine, with its wide range of usefulness, becomes as well known and appreciated by the people, it 
will take its proper place beside the sewing machine, as an equally useful , profitable, and indispensable implement of every day 
family use. It opens up a new field of attractive labor to all, in which skillful operators can readily earn from $3.00 to 
$8.00 per day. Farmers and wool growers can have their wool spun into yarn, and knit into socks or other articles of 
common utility, and thus realize better prices for their raw materials. 

A. great advantage of our Improved Machine is, that cylinders of various grades of fineness will fit the same machine, 
adapting it to all kinds of work from the coarsest to the finest, thus obviating the necessity of buying two or more entire 
machines to work on very fine or coarse yarn. 

Wherever_ it has been on exhibition, it has invariably won the highest encomiums, and secured the first prize at every 
Fair at which it has been shown. Thousands of them are now in use, in this and foreign countries, giving general satisfaction 
everywhere, and they are fast winning their way to every household, store, and workroom. 

Instructions in the use of the machines given to purchasers at the office of this company, free of charge. 

We append a few of many hundred unsolicited Testimonials, showing the intrinsic merit of the machine, and its satisfac- 
tory performances in the hands of purchasers. 



TESTIMONIALS. 



Schuyler Falls, N. Y., Nov. 11, 1874. 
Dana Bickford, Esq.: I received the last machine all O. 
K. Now, I want to say to you and the public that I think 
your Knitting Machine is the best machine there is manufac- 
tured, that I know of. I have used the American, also the 
Hinkley, and have seen the Lamb used. I can beat them all. 
Now I will tell you what I have done on one of your ma- 
chines. I have knit thirty pairs of socks complete in one day, and 
have a boy only ten years old that has knit fifteen pairs in 
one day. I knit in the month of March last five hundred 
and fifty pairs of socks. If any can beat that let them speak. 
I think there can be more made with one of your Knitting 
Machines, than there can be from a good farm, and with a great 
deal less labor. 

Yours truly, J. D. EVEEET. 

Mr. Bickford: Dear Sir — I purchased a Knitting Machine 
of you one year and one-half ago, which I like very much, 
and in less than two months I had done enough work on it to 
pay for it. The Bickford Machine is just what one needs for 
a Knitting Machine. 

MKS. F. A. HALE, Stowe, Vt. 

Granbt, Newton Co., Mo., July 13, 1874. 

D. Bickford: We have had one of your Knitting Machines 
in the family for about two years, and find it to be a success 
as far as we have tried it. Some of the fancy works spoken of 
in your Book of Instructions we have not had any occasion for ; 
nevertheless, from what we have already proved, we have no 
doubt it will do all that it claims. 

Not being satisfied with well enough, we thought to do 
better, sold the machine and bought a Lamb Machine. No 
doubt but what it is a good Machine, but it does Dot meet 
our demands like the Bickford Machine, could it be procured 
for the same price. But the Lamb costs sixty-five dollars. 



Please write us the price of the Family machine now. We 
want it mostly for knitting socks and stockings. We have 
been able to almost furnish this section in that line of goods. 
Answer soon. Respectfully yours, 

ABNER T. KNEELAND. 

LOCKRIDGE, IOWA. 

Mr. Bickford : Dear Sir — I received your sample of knit 
work Dec. 20th. I sat down to the machine, and knit a 
cord like the one sent, without any trouble at all. 1 can knit 
all the different stitches named. Since I received the Ma- 
chine, which was on the 30th of November, 1871, I have 
knit several pairs of socks, two pairs of mittens, and one 
pair of long stockings, all of which are pronounced by good 
hand knitters to be well done. The stockings especially are 
said to be knit as firm, and shaped as good, as can be done by 
hand. Yours, &c. , &c . , ROBERT STEPHENSON. 

ROSLYN, L. I. 

I have used Dana Bickford's Family Knitting Machine, 
both the new and old one, and find it capable of performing all 
that it is represented to do. I believe that any one devoting 
their whole time could earn a handsome independence in a 
few years. It should occupy a place in every household, 
especially where there is a large family of children. 

E. HAUXHURST. 

Fleming, Ohio. 
Dana Bickford, Esq. — The Knitting Machine received as a 
premium for club to Wood's Magazine more than meets our 
expectations, and I wish you to retain the Agency for me. 
Have had no difficulty so far. Never saw one work before 
and have already done nearly every thing that is claimed to 
he done. Very respectfully, 

S. W. HARVEY. 



New London, Conn., June 15. 
Dana Bickford, Esq. — Dear Sir : Allow me to write a word 
in favor of your beautiful Knitting Machine. I used the old 
one for three years, and thought it excellent ; but it is not to be 
compared at all with the "Dana Bickford Improved Family Knit- 
ting Machine." The reduction of time in knitting the various 
articles is perfectly marvelous. Add to that the beauty of the 
work, the manner of finishing so completely the most intricate 
pieces of knitting, while the whole process is so completely 
fascinating that one scarcely knows whether to call it work or 
play. Thus it is rendered the most complete machine that it 
has ever been my good fortune to meet with. I will also say 
that for profit it is unequaled by any thing in either Sewing or 
Knitting Machines. You see I believe in it, and do not hesi- 
tate to recommend it. Yours, &c. , 

H. P. BABCOCK. 

Mr. Samuel Macomber, of Grand Isle, Vt., writes: "Yours 
of the 23d is received ; also the Machine ; am delighted with 
it. I can knit a sock with a round heel and toe that can't be 
beaten by any other machine, or by the best hand knitter. 
My wife thinks it is splendid. 

Elk City, West Va., March 11. 
Mr. Dana Bickford : Dear Sir — The Machines you sent 
me have been on hand a few days, and I can inform you I 
am better pleased with them than I expected. Your recom- 
mendations are honest, and the Machine will do what you 
say. I can Knit any thing on it, and wouldn't ask any per- 
son for instruction. I started out to-day to exhibit it, and it 
took well with our people. We are wool-growers, and the 
first day I engaged four, which I will order. I think there is 
money in the business. 

Yours, very truly, J. E. HALL. 



Bickford Knitting Machine Company : Dear Sirb — Hav- 
ing had in my family for nearly a year past a Knitting 
Machine of your manufacture, I take pleasure in stating that 
it is a great favorite with us ; and after having made a trial 
of the Lamb Knitting Machine to test the comparative ex- 
cellency of the two, pronounce without hesitation in favor of 
the Bickford Machine. It takes up little room, runs with 
perfect ease, makes a greater variety of work, is much le*s 
liable to drop stitches and break yarn, and withal costs only 
about half the amount of the Lamb Machine. You are at 
liberty to make what use you deem expedient of the above 
statements. Yours truly, 

N. W. WILDER, 
Pastor M. E. Church, Wilmington, Vermont. 

Yonkers, N. Y. 
Mr. Dana Bickford: Dear Sir — Having had one of your 
beautiful and valuable little Machines in my family for some 
time, I feel as though I had a right to add a few words 
of praise to the many thousands you have received. If 
I had to part with it, it would be like parting with 
a near and tried friend, and I would not do so for any 
money, if I could not get another. Why ? It does so much 
work from a bed-quilt down to the smallest mitten. It is 
trulya "Family Machine," and is also simple — a never-ending 
source of amusement to children. I have a boy only eight 
years old, and he will do almost anything on it, and there has 
never been five minutes spent in showing him. He would 
stand beside me when I would be working on it, and once in 
a while would ask a question, and that is all the teaching he 
has had. I will send you a pair of children's leggings knit 
by him. Yours, &c, &c. 

Mrs. ALBERTINA C. CHRISTIAN. 



:r:flio:k3 list 



BICKFORD'S IMPROVED AUTOMATIC KNITTING MACHINES, 



No. 1. Improved Family Machine, with one Cylinder, 72 Needles (12 Gauge) $30 00 

" " " " " 35 00 

" " 100 " (24 Gauge) 35 00 

" " " " " 40 00 

" two "72&100" (12 & 24 Gauge) 40 00 

" " " " " " " 45 00 

" " " 84 & 108 " " " 45 00 

" " " . " " " 50 00 

" three " 72, 100, & 150 (12, 24, and 36 Gauge) 55 00 

" " "84, 108, & 150 " " " 60 00 

Extra fine Cylinders, -with 150 needles, (36 Gauge) 15 00 

Machine No. 3 is best adapted to general family use, having true cylinders — for coarse and fine work. 



" 


" Plated " " 


No. 2. 


" " " 


" 


" Plated " " 


No. 3. 


" " ' 


" 


" Plated " " 


No. 4. 


" " ' 


" 


" Plated " ' 


No. 5. 


" " " ' 


No. 6. 


" " " ' 



No. 1. Improved, with one Cylinder, 144 Needles (12 Gauge) $75 00 

"2. " " " " 200 " (24 Gauge) 85 00 

"3. " " two "144&200 " (12&24Gauge) 100 00 

"4. " " one " 300 " (26 Gauge) 100 00 

These Machines are twice the diameter of Family Machines, with double the number of needles, and are used 
for Manufacturing purposes in making undergarments of all kinds, &c, Ac. 

Machine Needles are FiTe cents eacb. 



Extra fixtures and parts of Machines constantly on hand at the manufactory. All parts of the Machine 
can be replaced at very' little expense, by sending the broken part to us, thus avoiding the necessity of sending 
the whole Machine. 

The following articles belong to and accompany each Machine, viz.: Bobbin Winder, Three Bobbins, Swift, Oiler, Set- 
up and Looper, Weight Hooh, Three Weights, Buckle, Six Extra Needles, and Illustrated Instruction Book. A Screw- 
driver goes with the extra Cylinder. 

To avoid mistakes, delays, and expenses, persons sending orders by mail should enclose a cheek, draft, or post-office 
order, with the address, directions, &c., plain and distinct. Orders for Machines, to he forwarded C. 0. D.. must be accom- 
panied by at least !en dollars for each Machine. 

Efficient and reliable agents wanted in every section of the country, who can easily make large profits In 
selling these Machines. Extra inducements to responsible General Agents— those having experience in the 
sale of Sewing Machines preferred. In order to protect genuine Agents, we furnish the first Machine at retail 
price, the amount above wholesale price to be deducted when three or more Machines have been ordered. This 
rule for the protection of Agents will be appreciated by all who have had experience in similar business. 

All orders and communications should be addressed to the 

iioefqib nrnm imiih 

BRATTLEBORO, Vt. 



■] 



£>*? 



New York Office, "rtrt Broadway. 




BICEFOKD 



J& 



family Knitting VacU 



■ .! 
5 






PUBLISHED AND COPYRIGHTED BY 

DANA BIOKFORD, 

Inventor and Patentee. 






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